If there’s one material which is intrinsically linked with the countryside, it’s got to be tweed. However, you might not be familiar with its rather storied history and exactly why it has had the staying power that it has, with it continuing to be a staple in many a country wardrobe.
So, whether you’ve been thinking about investing in a brand new item of tweed clothing, or have been wondering how to care for an existing piece, here’s everything you need to know about tweed, its uses and why it has been a quintessentially British fabric for generations now.
What is tweed?
Unlike tartan, which is a pattern, tweed is actually a distinctive type of fabric in terms of its weave. Because of this, it’s not surprising to see tweeds in different colours, patterns, hefts and textures.
From thicker outerwear to lightweight accessories such as scarves and ties, whatever its design, it is typically and traditionally made and woven from pure new wool.
While the word tweed can often get thrown around a bit these days, especially if you’re shopping at more mainstream retailers, some of which might even be classed as fast fashion, there are only a select number of authentic tweed manufacturers here in Britain. So, if you’re unsure as to whether or not it is in fact proper tweed, this is good to keep in mind.
For example, you’ll probably be familiar with Harris Tweed, while other notable Scottish mills include Johnstons of Elgin, Locharron and Lovat Mill. Elsewhere in the UK, Magee, and Fox Brothers, are also highly renowned and recognised.
There are also a few different iterations of tweed, depending on your personal preference, meaning that there’s something for every taste and budget. From the simple twill tweed, to herringbone and checked designs, right through to custom patterns and stylish houndstooth and dogtooth looks, and barleycorn tweed – which as the name alludes to – resembles the texture of barley kernels, these iterations can be found in everything from traditional blazers and waistcoats to accessories such as flat caps, wallets and even handbags.
How is tweed made?
Tweed fabric starts its life as pure raw wool, which is then dyed and spun to create the desired colour or tone. Depending on the pattern or design, quite a few colours or shades of dyed yarn will then be combined to create the final look. But, either way, the individual dyed batches are blended before being pulled and passed through a series of rollers to straighten and stretch the fibres, known as carding, before being spun into what we would know as a traditional thread and weaved into the desired pattern.
Back in the day, this would have been done by hand or on a loom, and this technique remains to this day at many mills up and down the country. Finally, the woven fabric is washed, beaten to soften the fibres up a bit, and then dried and pressed.
Why is tweed used?
Tweed has been used for centuries now, having originally been created to protect working men and women from the rather unpredictable weather conditions that we’re used to here in the UK.
Its durability, warmth and insulation, natural wind and water-resistance, is why it continues to remain a popular and proper choice for country wear, with certain colourways and designs even proving beneficial as a camouflage, due to their natural hues. Alternatively, you don’t need to be trekking out to the great outdoors to wear and appreciate tweed. It’s also a fashionable fabric for special events, such as weddings and celebrations, with it adding a stylish touch to any outfit, regardless of the time of year.
Tweed’s history
To understand tweed’s enduring appeal, it’s crucial to look back to its humble beginnings. With origins in Scotland and Ireland, how it came to be known and recognised as tweed is still a bit of a mystery. Some say it originated from the Scots word for twill, “tweel”, while others believe that a London merchant misread tweel, thinking it was the name taken from the River Tweed in Scotland, and advertised it as tweed, and that just so happened to be the name that stuck.
Either way, it soon became a popular and fashionable choice for the country’s elite – from royalty to famous authors and noblemen – with the upper classes donning the resilient woollen fabric for hunting, shooting and fishing, before it filtered down to the middle classes and beyond.
Since then, it has been donned by everyone from Sherlock Holmes to Coco Chanel and Anna Wintour, with tweed continuing to be an enduring and beloved textile. Even today, when an increasing number of us are becoming more conscious of where our clothing has been made alongside its composition, tweed is often seen as an environmentally and sustainable choice due to its longevity, natural material and lower amount of fabric wastage. It’s the kind of piece to be passed from one generation to the next, if cared for correctly, which brings us on to our next point.
How to look after tweed
To keep your tweed items looking and feeling their best for years, if not decades, to come, it’s imperative to know how to look after the historic fabric. First and foremost, it’s important to check that any tweed items are clean and unstained before you go to store them away, whether that be in a wardrobe, set of drawers or dedicated storage bin.
Because of its composition, any spills or stains can quickly seep into the wool fabric. So, you’ll want to act quickly and blot away any accidents with a clean damp cloth. For larger stains or general upkeep, it’s recommended to take any tweed items to a dry cleaner, who has specific experience in cleaning and caring for wool and tweed, instead of simply shoving it in the washing machine.
And like most items in our wardrobes or drawers, it’s just as important to have adequate space in either, as you don’t want to crowd or pack in these sorts of items. This can stop air from circulating freely and allow musty smells to develop, or even cause clothing to become misshapen if packed in too tightly. In addition to this, you might need to contend with moths, who are just as big a fan of tweed as we are. Something as simple as hanging lavender bags or cedar wood can keep them away, and we’ve personally noticed a big difference when using both.
As for caring for your tweed items in between uses, step away from the tumble dryer and iron, especially if you routinely iron without placing a clean cloth in between the item of clothing and the hot plate itself. Doing either can damage the wool fibres and permanently alter the look and structure of the garment. Instead, opt for a garment steamer or utilise the steam function on your iron to keep wrinkles or creases at bay.
And given the somewhat changeable great British weather – to say the least – if you do ever happen to be caught outdoors in a sudden rain shower or downpour, don’t despair. When you get home, allow your tweed to dry naturally and give it a gentle brush with a dedicated soft-bristle tweed brush to fluff it back up. This brush can also be used to help remove any surface dust or dirt that might have accumulated, too.
